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I am now able to report, following lifting of restrictions, that there has been another sighting of the phenomena calling itself The Chameleonic Morris Men, complete with attendant musicians, fool and hobby horse. They were first spotted, late in the evening at the airport in the capital city Vilnius where they were met by a small group of delightful young women who had arranged transport to the Hotel Victoria. Where it is understood, following the rigours of the journey in the care of Lithuanian Airlines, the men, allegedly, spent a comfortable night.
The following morning, after a hearty breakfast, the transport arrived
complete with aforementioned young women who were to act as guides for a
tour of the city. Usual things, like a cathedral, a bar, the University, a
bar and the historic Gediminas Tower named after a 14th century
Grand Duke of Lithuania. A little later a small commotion on the top of
the tower was observed, it appears that a number of peculiarly dressed
people were waving white handkerchiefs, maybe a distress signal or
something of the kind.
That evening the group was booked to provide two performances in the newly
opened Irish Bar. It was not like any Irish bar I have ever seen before.
It comprised of a large covered courtyard with a small stage area and a
seating capacity at tables of some two hundred people. Downstairs there
were a further two small bars. After the groups performance and that of a
Lithuanian Country and Western band, they all adjourned to a downstairs
bars for a music and song session which went on until the early hours. One
of the problems associated with this bar was that it was cheaper to buy
tree pints of Guinness at once than tree separately.
Next morning rather later than planned, the group was taken some way into
the countryside, to Trakia and Medieval castle on an island in a large and
beautiful lake. The usual informal performance took place.
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On Friday the group was due to perform at a festival at Mosedis, the village of stones. The group was formally greeted with a song and a presentation of cheese and home made bread beer which was surprisingly good. Those of you familiar with Avebury in Wiltshire will have some idea of the scale of the stones used. In this case they have been collected by one man from many sources and they are erected all over the village, lining the streets, in gardens and as large stone circles invarious fields.
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That evening two shows were given on the main stage erected in the Town
Square. Many other folk groups from different regions of Lithuania and
abroad took part. Following this an informal show at the local school,
where beer as provided in large quantities an was a very good. This was
the beginning of the acquaintance with the brewer, who then appeared at
every venue with a new ‘barrel’, even at the hotel early in the
morning upon the groups departure. The ‘barrel’ actually consisted of
a length of stainless steel tubing about 350mm x 600mm with tap and spile,
mounted on a small trestle.
Several visits
were arranged in the area. One was a visit to a former Russian missile
site. I was reliably informed that one of the missiles had words in
English written on it, something like "T e eat h af’ my informant
could not quite make it out. It was a salutary experience, but music and
dance triumphed in the end, as the Morris prevailed when the group danced
on top of the main chamber.
Sunday was the leaving of Telsiai for the town of Palanga some 70 km away on the Baltic coast to take part in the Lego sponsored Festival. This is the amber coast and vast quantities are available and some of the most beautiful were seen in the Amber Museum. The show duly went ahead culmination in the impromptu rendition of "Always look on the bright side of life" , but substituting the Lithuanian word "aciu" (Thank you) for the normal Python whistling. The hosts of the Festival insisted that the group should have a few beers in the best bar in town. This was a mistake for some, as another allnighter materialised.. That was the last night as the next day the group travelled the tedius journey back tp Vinius in an old Russian service bus and then the sad goodbyes and the return flight.
My impressions of Lithuania is that it appears to be a very open, friendly and generous country working hard to regain it’s identity after years of occupation. Whilst it is materially relatively poor by western standards and its agriculture is somewhat backward, the towns and cities are well maintained and the countryside is unspoilt. Maybe I was privileged, for a short time to be part of the cultural life and guided by sympathetic people, but it is my intention to make a return trip.
